How to Keep Snow Out of a Chicken Run

By John Walker · Backyard chicken keeper in Dallas, Texas since 2017

Learning how to keep snow out of a chicken run is a winter job that makes a real difference to your flock, because a run full of snow is a run the hens will not use. Chickens dislike walking on snow, they will not scratch in it, and they will stay in the coop all day if the run is deep in snow, which leads to boredom, pecking and stress. Snow also melts into the ground, making the run muddy and wet, and wet ground in winter is a recipe for frostbite and respiratory problems. The fix is a mix of a roof, windbreaks, regular clearing and dry bedding, and this guide works through each one, so your hens have a dry, usable run all winter.

How to keep snow out of a chicken run

To keep snow out of a chicken run, cover the run with a solid or clear roof, block the windward sides with panels or tarps, clear snow after each fall, and keep the ground dry with a deep layer of straw or wood chips.

A roof is the single most effective step, because it stops snow falling straight into the run, and a windbreak on the side the wind blows from stops snow drifting in sideways. The two together keep most of the snow out, and the clearing and bedding deal with the rest.

Start with the roof. A run with no roof will fill with snow in the first storm, and no amount of clearing will keep it dry. A solid roof of corrugated metal or plastic, or a clear polycarbonate roof that lets light in, will keep the run dry and bright. The roof should slope, so snow slides off rather than building up, and it should be strong enough to hold the weight of snow in your area. A flat roof that collects snow can collapse, so a slope is not optional in a snowy climate.

Block the windward sides next. Snow rarely falls straight down in a storm, it blows in sideways, and it will drift into a run through the open sides even if the roof is covered. Hang clear plastic panels, tarps or plywood on the sides that face the prevailing wind, and leave the other sides open for air. Clear panels are best, because they block the wind and the snow but let the light in, and the hens will still be able to see out.

Roof options for a chicken run

A solid roof is the best option for a chicken run in a snowy climate, and corrugated metal or polycarbonate are the two most popular materials. Corrugated metal is strong, cheap and long-lasting, and it sheds snow well, but it blocks the light, so the run can be dark in winter.

Clear polycarbonate lets the light in, which the hens need for laying, and it is light and easy to fit, but it can be damaged by a heavy snow load if it is not supported well.

A tarp is a cheaper, temporary roof, and it works for a season or two, but it is not a long-term fix. A tarp will sag under snow, collect water, and tear in a storm, and it needs to be tightened and cleared often. If you use a tarp, slope it steeply, tie it tightly, and clear the snow off it after each fall, so it does not collapse. A tarp is a good stopgap while you plan a proper roof, but it should not be the permanent answer.

Whatever roof you choose, make sure it is sloped, supported, and fixed firmly, because a roof that collapses in a snowstorm can injure the hens and destroy the run. Check the roof after each snowfall, and clear the snow off it with a broom or a roof rake, so the weight does not build up. A roof that is cleared regularly will last longer and will keep the run drier.

Windbreaks and side panels

Windbreaks are panels that block the wind and the snow from the sides of the run, and they are the second step after the roof. The windward side, which is the side the wind blows from most often, needs a solid panel, while the other sides can be left open for air.

In most places the wind comes from the north or the west in winter, so those sides are the ones to block, but check which way the wind blows in your garden, because it varies.

Clear plastic panels are the best windbreak, because they block the wind and the snow but let the light in, and the hens can see out. Plywood is cheaper and stronger, but it blocks the light, and the run can become dark. Tarps are a cheap option, but they flap in the wind and can scare the hens, so they should be tied tightly. Whatever you use, fix it firmly, because a loose panel in a storm can injure a hen.

Leave gaps at the top of the windbreaks for ventilation, because a run that is sealed up tight will become damp and airless, and damp air causes respiratory problems and frostbite. The hens need fresh air, even in winter, and a run with a roof and windbreaks but no ventilation is worse than a run with no cover at all. Leave a gap of a few inches at the top of each panel, and the air will flow without letting the snow in.

Clearing snow from the run

Clearing snow from the run is a job that needs doing after each snowfall, not once a week, because snow that is left to melt soaks into the ground and makes the run muddy. Shovel the snow out of the run as soon as it stops falling.

Clear a path from the coop door to the feeder and the drinker, so the hens can get to food and water without walking through deep snow. A snow shovel, a broom and a wheelbarrow are the tools for the job, and a few minutes after each storm is enough.

Do not use salt or chemical de-icers in the run, because they can harm the hens if they eat them, and they can damage the soil. Plain sand or grit is a safe way to give the hens grip on icy ground, and it is cheap and easy to scatter. Wood ash from a stove is sometimes used, but it can be dusty and it can irritate the hens' breathing, so sand is the better choice.

If the snow is very deep, you may need to dig the run out in stages, clearing the path first and then the rest of the run. Work from the coop door outwards, so the hens can get out as soon as the path is clear, and pile the snow outside the run, not inside it, so it does not melt back into the run. A run that is cleared regularly will stay dry, and the hens will use it all winter.

Keeping the run floor dry in winter

A dry run floor is the goal in winter, and deep bedding is the best way to get it. A thick layer of straw, wood chips or dry leaves on the run floor soaks up moisture, gives the hens something dry to stand on, and insulates the ground from the cold.

Straw is the best choice, because it is warm, dry and easy to replace, and the hens enjoy scratching in it. Wood chips are also good, because they drain well and they last longer than straw.

Add bedding after each snowfall, once the snow has been cleared, so the hens always have a dry surface. A layer of six inches or more is a good depth in winter, and it should be topped up as it gets packed down or wet. Remove any bedding that is soaked or smelly, because wet bedding breeds bacteria and ammonia, and it can cause respiratory problems and frostbite. A dry run is a healthy run, and the bedding is the key to it.

The deep litter method, in which bedding is added in layers and left to compost, can work in the run as well as in the coop, because the composting bedding gives off a little heat and keeps the floor dry. But it needs care: the bedding must be turned and topped up, and it must not be allowed to become wet and compacted. If you use deep litter, check it often, and add fresh bedding when it starts to smell or to feel damp.

What if snow still gets in?

Even with a roof and windbreaks, some snow will get into the run, because wind can blow it in through gaps, and it can drift in under the panels. That is normal, and it is not a failure: the goal is to keep most of the snow out, not all of it.

A little snow in the run is not a problem as long as the hens have a dry area to stand on and a clear path to food and water.

If snow does get in, clear it as soon as you can, and add fresh bedding on top of the wet ground. The hens will avoid the snowy patches and use the dry bedding, and they will go back to using the whole run once the snow is cleared. If the snow is very deep and the hens will not come out at all, scatter some feed and treats on the dry bedding to tempt them out, because a hen that stays in the coop all day will get bored and may start pecking.

In a very heavy snow, when the run is buried and the hens cannot get out, it is better to keep them in the coop for a day, with food and water inside, than to force them out into deep snow. The hens will be safe and warm in the coop, and they can go out again once the snow is cleared. A day inside is not a problem, but a week inside is, so clear the run as soon as the storm passes.

Snow, cold and the hens' health

Snow in the run is not just a nuisance, it is a health issue, because wet, cold ground can cause frostbite on the hens' feet and combs, and damp air can cause respiratory problems. Hens that stand in wet snow can get chilled, and a chilled hen is more likely to become ill.

Hens that stay in the coop all day because the run is full of snow can become bored and stressed, and they may start pecking each other, which can lead to injuries and cannibalism.

The hens' feet are the most at risk, because they have no feathers on their feet, and standing in snow or in icy water can cause frostbite. The signs are pale, cold feet, and a hen that will not stand or walk. If you see those signs, bring the hen inside, warm her feet gently, and keep her in a warm, dry place until she recovers. Prevention is better: a dry run, with deep bedding, keeps the hens' feet off the snow and the ice.

The coop also matters. A coop that is dry, draught-free and well ventilated will keep the hens warm and healthy, even in a snowy winter, while a damp, draughty coop will make them ill. Our guide on how to winterize a chicken coop explains the coop side of winter care in full, and it works together with this guide on the run. A dry run and a dry coop are the two halves of winter care, and both need attention.

Sources: poultry.extension.org.

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For more on the same topic, see Do Chicken Runs Need a Roof?.

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