Chicken Feed Types Explained
By John Walker · Backyard chicken keeper in Dallas, Texas since 2017
The main chicken feed types are starter, grower and layer, and they match the bird's age: starter at about 20 percent protein for chicks up to 8 weeks, grower at about 16 percent from 8 to 18 weeks, and layer at 16 to 18 percent with extra calcium once hens start laying.
What are the different types of chicken feed?
Chicken feed comes in types matched to the bird's age and purpose: starter for chicks, grower for young birds, layer for laying hens, broiler feed for meat birds, and all-flock feed for mixed flocks. Each type has a different protein level and a different calcium level, because a chick building muscle and a hen building eggshells need different things.
The most important difference is calcium. Layer feed contains about 3.5 to 4 percent calcium for strong eggshells, while starter and grower feeds contain only about 1 percent. That extra calcium is essential for a laying hen and harmful to a growing chick, whose kidneys cannot handle it — which is why the feed type matters more than the brand.
Feed also comes in forms: mash, crumble and pellets. Mash is a loose powder, crumble is mash pressed into small broken pieces, and pellets are compressed cylinders. Chicks need crumble because pellets are too big for small beaks; adult hens do well on pellets, which waste less because the birds cannot flick them out of the feeder as easily. The nutrition is the same across forms of the same feed type.
What is chick starter feed?
Chick starter feed is about 20 percent protein and is fed from hatch to about 6 to 8 weeks old. It is sold as a fine crumble, and it is the only feed a chick needs in its first weeks — it supports the very fast growth of the first month, when a chick can increase its weight tenfold.
Starter feed comes in medicated and unmedicated versions. Medicated starter contains a coccidiostat, which helps protect chicks against coccidiosis, a common gut disease of young birds. It is not an antibiotic, and it does not make the eggs or meat unsafe — but if your chicks were vaccinated against coccidiosis, use unmedicated starter, because the medication cancels out the vaccine.
A chick eats about 0.03 lb of starter a day in week 1, rising to about 0.08 lb a day by week 4 and about 0.12 lb a day by week 8. Keep the feeder full and the feed dry at all times. If you are working out quantities, the Chick Feed Calculator by Age gives week-by-week amounts for your number of chicks.
What is grower feed, and when do chickens switch to it?
Grower feed is about 16 percent protein and is fed from about 8 weeks until point of lay, at 18 to 22 weeks depending on breed. Its job is to keep the young bird growing steadily without pushing it to lay too early — a pullet that starts laying before her body is ready lays small eggs.
The switch from starter to grower is gradual. Over a week, mix increasing amounts of grower into the starter until the birds are eating grower alone. A sudden change of feed can put birds off eating for a day or two, and young birds that stop eating lose condition fast. The same gradual approach applies to every feed change on this page.
Some keepers skip grower and keep birds on starter until point of lay, then switch straight to layer. That works, but it costs more, because starter is the most expensive feed type and its extra protein is wasted on a bird that has finished its fastest growth. Grower feed is the economical middle step, and it is what most extension guidance recommends.
What is layer feed?
Layer feed is 16 to 18 percent protein with about 3.5 to 4 percent calcium, and it is fed from point of lay onwards for as long as the hen is laying. The calcium builds strong eggshells, and the protein maintains egg production — a hen puts about 6 grams of protein into every egg she lays.
A layer eats about 0.25 lb of feed a day, within a range of 0.22 to 0.28 lb depending on breed, size and temperature. Free-range birds eat about 15 percent less bought feed because they forage, and birds eat about 10 percent more in winter to stay warm. Use the Chicken Feed Calculator to work out daily and monthly amounts for your flock.
Offer oyster shell or crushed eggshell in a separate dish alongside layer feed, so hens that need extra calcium can take it and hens that do not need it are not forced to eat it. Do not mix the shell into the feed. And never feed layer feed to chicks, growers, or non-laying birds: the calcium level that keeps a laying hen's shells strong can damage a young bird's kidneys.
What is broiler feed, and what is all-flock feed?
Broiler feed is made for meat birds, and it is the highest-protein feed in the range — usually 20 to 24 percent protein in the starter phase, dropping to about 18 to 20 percent in the finisher phase. Broilers grow astonishingly fast, reaching table weight in six to eight weeks.
Broiler feed is not suitable for laying hens: it pushes growth, not eggs, and its calcium level is too low for shells.
All-flock feed is a compromise feed at about 16 to 18 percent protein with only about 1 percent calcium, made for mixed flocks where layers, growers, roosters and non-laying birds all eat from the same feeder. It works if you also offer oyster shell in a separate dish, so the laying hens can top up their calcium while the other birds eat the low-calcium feed. It is the practical choice for a mixed backyard flock, though dedicated layer feed gives slightly better laying results for a flock of laying hens only.
If you want to mix your own ration from ingredients such as corn and soybean meal, the Feed Formulation Calculator works out the proportions for a target protein level. The standard planning values are corn at 9 percent protein and soybean meal at 44 percent protein, with targets of 20 percent for starter, 16 percent for grower and 16 to 18 percent for layer.
How do you switch chicken feed types?
Switch feeds gradually over five to seven days. Start with three parts old feed to one part new, then half and half, then one part old to three parts new. Birds notice a change in taste, smell and texture, and a switch can put them off eating — which matters most when switching to layer feed at point of lay.
Time the switch to layer feed by the bird, not the calendar. Switch when the first egg appears, or when the pullet's comb and wattles redden and she starts squatting — usually 18 to 22 weeks for standard breeds and 22 to 24 weeks for large breeds. Switching too early loads a young bird with calcium she cannot use; switching too late means the first eggs have thin shells.
Store all feed types in a dry, rodent-proof container, off the floor, and use it within a few weeks of opening. Feed that gets damp goes mouldy, and mouldy feed can make birds seriously ill. Buy in quantities you will use within a month in summer, and never feed anything that smells musty or looks clumped. For what else birds can eat besides bought feed, see what to feed chickens.
| Feed type | Age fed | Protein | Calcium | Form | Fed to |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Starter | 0–8 weeks | ~20% | ~1% | Crumble | Chicks |
| Grower | 8–18 weeks | ~16% | ~1% | Crumble or pellets | Young birds, pullets |
| Layer | From point of lay | 16–18% | 3.5–4% | Pellets or crumble | Laying hens |
| Broiler starter | 0–3 weeks | 20–24% | ~1% | Crumble | Meat chicks |
| Broiler finisher | 3–8 weeks | 18–20% | ~1% | Pellets | Meat birds |
| All-flock | Any age after 8 weeks | 16–18% | ~1% | Pellets | Mixed flocks, plus oyster shell on the side |
Protein targets: starter 20 percent, grower 16 percent, layer 16 to 18 percent. Ingredient planning values: corn 9 percent protein, soybean meal 44 percent protein. Never feed layer feed to chicks — the calcium can damage their kidneys.
Sources: the protein and calcium figures on this page — starter 20 percent, grower 16 percent, layer 16 to 18 percent, corn 9 percent and soybean meal 44 percent — are the planning values used across PeckCalc. For feeding guidance, see the poultry pages at Penn State Extension and poultry.extension.org.
What is in a bag of chicken feed?
A bag of complete chicken feed is mostly ground grains for energy, a protein meal for growth and eggs, ground limestone for calcium, and a vitamin and mineral premix that covers everything else. The exact recipe varies by brand, but the balance of nutrients is what matters, not the individual ingredients.
The grains — corn, wheat, barley and oats — supply most of the daily energy. The protein comes from meals such as soybean meal, fish meal, field peas and alfalfa, and fats and oils such as flaxseed and fish oil add concentrated energy and support skin and feather condition. Protein quality matters as much as protein quantity: chickens cannot make ten essential amino acids, and lysine and methionine are the two most likely to run short, so a ration can hit its protein target and still fall short if those amino acids are imbalanced. Calcium must be balanced with phosphorus and supported by vitamin D for the bird to absorb it, and a little fibre from ingredients such as alfalfa supports digestion and can deepen yolk colour. If you want to mix your own ration, the Feed Formulation Calculator works out proportions from ingredients such as corn at 9 percent protein and soybean meal at 44 percent protein.
Pellets, crumble, mash or whole grain: which form should you choose?
Feed comes in four forms — pellets, crumble, mash and whole grain — and the nutrition is the same across forms of the same feed type, so the choice is about waste, convenience and what your birds will eat. Pellets waste least, crumble suits small beaks, mash is cheapest but messiest, and whole grain lets birds pick out their favourites.
| Form | What it is | Best for | Waste and notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pellets | Ingredients ground and pressed into small cylinders | Adult hens | Least waste; birds cannot sort out favourite bits |
| Crumble | Pellets broken into coarse pieces | Chicks and growers | More dust and waste than pellets; some hens prefer the texture |
| Mash | Finely ground, loose meal | Chicks; fermenting | Most waste; birds scatter it and sort ingredients, so nutrition per bite varies |
| Whole grain | Cracked grains and seeds, unprocessed | Adult birds | Encourages natural pecking, but birds pick favourites and leave the rest |
| Textured mix | A blend of grains and pellets | Picky eaters | Middle ground; still lets birds sort to some extent |
Chicks need crumble or mash because pellets are too big for small beaks, and mash works well mixed with a little water to make a wet feed. For most backyard flocks of adult hens, pellets are the practical choice: they stay cleaner in the feeder and the birds cannot flick them out as easily. Whichever form you choose, keep it dry — damp feed goes mouldy, and mouldy feed can make birds seriously ill.
What is developer feed, and what is pre-layer feed?
Developer feed is the stage between grower and layer, fed from about 14 weeks until the first egg, and pre-layer feed is a similar bridge ration with a little extra calcium to prepare the hen's body for laying. Both are optional: many keepers feed grower until the first egg and switch straight to layer, and that works fine.
Developer feed runs at about 15 to 16 percent protein with low calcium, like grower feed. Its job is steady growth without pushing the pullet to lay too early, and pre-layer adds a modest step up in calcium so the hen's reserves are ready when shell production starts. If your feed brand does not sell a developer or pre-layer feed, grower feed until the first egg is the substitute — the switch to layer feed is timed by the bird, not the calendar, and it happens when the first egg appears.
What is organic chicken feed?
Organic chicken feed is made without synthetic pesticides or genetically modified ingredients, and many organic feeds skip corn and soy in favour of peas, barley or sunflower seeds for protein. It meets the same protein and calcium targets as ordinary feed — the difference is the ingredients, not the nutrition on the label.
Check the label the same way you would for any feed: starter at about 20 percent protein, grower at about 16 percent, and layer at 16 to 18 percent with 3.5 to 4 percent calcium. Organic does not mean higher protein, and it does not change the feeding rules — the same gradual switch, the same storage rules, and the same 10 percent limit on treats all apply. Be wary of the word natural on a bag: it is not the same as certified organic, and it tells you nothing about the protein or calcium inside.
Can you ferment chicken feed?
Fermenting chicken feed means soaking mash or whole grain in water for 24 to 48 hours until it bubbles lightly, which breaks down anti-nutrients such as phytates and makes protein, vitamins and minerals easier for the bird to absorb. It also adds moisture, supports gut health, and reduces waste because the feed swells and the birds eat less of it.
To ferment feed, put mash or whole grain in a food-grade container — glass, stainless steel or food-grade plastic — and cover it with non-chlorinated water, using filtered water or water left to stand so the chlorine escapes. Cover the container with a breathable cloth or a loose lid, never a sealed lid, and stir it once a day. Bubbles on the surface are normal, and the mix should smell pleasantly sour. Serve only what the birds will eat in one sitting, and keep the feed covered with water between servings. You can reuse the leftover liquid to start the next batch, and it will ferment faster. Discard any batch that smells rotten rather than sour, and do not ferment pellets — mash and whole grain are the forms that work.
What are the most common chicken feeding mistakes?
The most common feeding mistakes are feeding layer feed to chicks, using scratch grains as the main diet, giving too many treats, and storing feed where it goes damp or stale. Each one is easy to make and easy to fix, and most of them show up first as fewer eggs or thinner shells.
Feeding layer feed to chicks or growers loads young birds with calcium their kidneys cannot handle, so keep the low-calcium feeds until the first egg. Feeding scratch grains as the main diet gives the birds energy without protein — scratch is about 8 to 10 percent protein, and a hen fed mainly on it will stop laying. Giving more than 10 percent treats dilutes the balanced ration in the same way. Storing feed in a damp shed or buying more than you will use in a month invites mould, and mouldy feed can make birds seriously ill. Offering whole grains or forage without grit leaves the birds unable to grind what they eat, because grit does the chewing. And mixing oyster shell into the feed instead of offering it in a separate dish forces birds that do not need calcium to eat it — free choice lets each hen take what she needs.
Related tools and guides
For more on the same topic, see How Much Feed Per Chicken Per Day by Age and Chick Brooder Temperature by Week.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between starter, grower and layer feed?
Starter is about 20 percent protein for chicks to 8 weeks, grower is about 16 percent protein for young birds from 8 to 18 weeks, and layer is 16 to 18 percent protein with 3.5 to 4 percent calcium for laying hens. The calcium difference is the important one — layer calcium can damage a chick's kidneys.
When should chickens switch from starter to layer feed?
Switch to layer feed when the first egg appears, or when the pullet's comb reddens and she starts squatting — usually 18 to 22 weeks for standard breeds. Switch gradually over five to seven days, mixing the old and new feeds.
Can chickens eat all-flock feed instead of layer feed?
Yes, if you offer oyster shell in a separate dish so laying hens can top up their calcium. All-flock feed is about 16 to 18 percent protein with only about 1 percent calcium, so it suits mixed flocks of layers, roosters and non-laying birds eating together.
What is medicated chick starter feed?
Medicated starter contains a coccidiostat that protects chicks against coccidiosis, a common gut disease of young birds. It is not an antibiotic. If your chicks were vaccinated against coccidiosis, use unmedicated starter instead, because the medication cancels out the vaccine.
How long does chicken feed last once opened?
Use opened feed within a few weeks, and store it dry, off the floor, in a rodent-proof container. Damp feed goes mouldy quickly, and mouldy feed can make birds seriously ill. Never feed anything that smells musty or looks clumped.
Pellets or crumble — which is better?
Pellets waste less, because birds cannot sort through them to pick out favourite bits, and they stay cleaner in the feeder. Crumble suits chicks and young birds whose beaks are too small for pellets, and some adult hens prefer it. The nutrition is the same across forms of the same feed type, so choose by waste and by what your birds eat willingly.
Can I ferment chicken feed?
Yes. Soak mash or whole grain in non-chlorinated water in a breathable container for 24 to 48 hours, stir daily, and serve what the birds will eat in one sitting. Fermenting breaks down phytates so nutrients are easier to absorb, supports gut health, and reduces waste. Discard any batch that smells rotten rather than pleasantly sour.
What is developer feed?
Developer feed is an optional stage between grower and layer, fed from about 14 weeks until the first egg, with moderate protein and low calcium. It supports steady growth without pushing hens to lay too early. If your feed brand does not sell it, grower feed until the first egg works just as well.
Can I mix my own chicken feed?
You can, but it needs care: a homemade ration must balance protein, the amino acids lysine and methionine, calcium, phosphorus and vitamin D, and feed-store mixed rations are often incomplete. Use the Feed Formulation Calculator to work out proportions from ingredients such as corn at 9 percent protein and soybean meal at 44 percent protein, and check the result against the targets for your birds' age.
About the author
John Walker is the founder of PeckCalc and has kept backyard chickens in Dallas, Texas since 2017. He started PeckCalc to give backyard keepers free calculators and guides with every figure traced to a university extension source.